Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee

Spectacularly complex ‘Poor Man's Krug’, a Catherine Wheel of spice and apple aromas and flavours; superb structure and imposing length. Surely the greatest value champagne of all. More than 300 parcels from more than 85% grand crus and premier crus, 15% of the base wine fermented in old barrels; 60/25/15% pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier.

A lovely Champagne, with a sense of elegant tailoring as the satiny mousse caresses the palate and well-honed acidity creates a mouthwatering impression that carries flavors of ripe black currant, grilled almond, pickled ginger and clover honey. A chalky base note echoes on the finish, joined by fragrant anise and cumin. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

The NV Champagne Special Cuvée (60% Pinot Noir and based on the 2021 harvest) pours a bright yellow/silver hue on opening and reveals a fresh and actually more mineral-driven profile on the nose than I was expecting, revealing layers of fresh raspberries, brioche, wet stone, and orange blossoms. The palate is medium to full-bodied and classically rounded, as you would come to expect from this house, but it retains good tension and a silky, chalky texture, with an ultra-fine mousse, salinity in its notes of grapefruit zest and almond, and a creamy texture through the finish. It’s very well-styled and is going to drink well over the next 10 years. They always try to have 8-10 vintages the blend, the oldest being 18 years (15 years when it goes into the bottle). 8 grams per liter dosage.

A polished palate of fine bubbles with pears, light bread dough and caramel undertones. Medium-bodied with pretty toasted-oak and vanilla flavors. Refined finish. Touch of quince and grapefruit with dried apples. Base wine 2021 plus nine different vintages. A blend of 61% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 14% pinot meunier.

A vinous Champagne, this has pinot-noir depths of flavor, the structure enhanced by barrel-fermented reserve wines. Youthfully blunt in its power, this will benefit from a year in the cellar, when it can settle into its dry mineral savor and hazelnut grace.